Words of a Watchman

A classic comfort dish built on a French culinary foundation

At the heart of most traditional macaroni and cheese is sauce Mornay, a refined French creation that starts as Béchamel — a smooth, white “mother sauce” made from milk thickened with a roux (flour and butter). To turn Béchamel into Mornay, you add cheese, typically Gruyère and Parmesan.

When this idea crossed the Channel to Britain and then the Atlantic to North America, it adapted to local tastes and availability — Gruyère often gave way to Cheddar, and cooks added flourishes like mustard, onions, or shallots for extra depth. The dish that emerged became the familiar, deeply satisfying macaroni and cheese, but its DNA is unmistakably French.

Ingredients

For the sauce:

• 4 tbsp (60 g) unsalted butter
• 1 small onion or 2 medium shallots, finely minced
• 4 tbsp (30 g) all-purpose flour
• 4 cups (1 L) whole milk, warmed
• 1 bay leaf (optional)
• Small pinch freshly grated nutmeg (optional)
• 2 tsp Dijon mustard or 1 tsp dry mustard powder
• 6 oz (170 g) sharp Cheddar, grated
• 4 oz (115 g) Gruyère (or more Cheddar),
• grated Salt and white pepper to taste

For assembly:

• 1 lb (450 g) elbow macaroni or other short pasta, cooked al dente
• Optional: 1 cup (100 g) coarse breadcrumbs tossed with 1 tbsp melted butter and a pinch of salt

Method

Sweat the aromatics:
In a heavy saucepan over medium heat, melt the butter. Add the onion or shallots and cook 3–4 minutes until softened but not browned.

Make the roux:
Stir in the flour, cooking 1–2 minutes to eliminate raw flavor. Keep the roux pale.

Build the Béchamel:
Gradually whisk in the warm milk, starting with a small amount to avoid lumps. Add the bay leaf if using. Simmer gently, stirring, until thick enough to coat a spoon.

Season and convert to Mornay:
Remove the bay leaf. Stir in mustard and nutmeg. Lower heat, then add cheeses a handful at a time, stirring until smooth. Adjust seasoning with salt and white pepper.

Combine with pasta:
Toss the cooked macaroni into the sauce until well coated.

Serve or bake:

Stovetop: Serve immediately for a creamy version.

Baked: Transfer to a buttered baking dish, top with breadcrumbs and/or extra cheese, and bake at 375 °F (190 °C) for 20–25 minutes, until golden and bubbling.